2005 Nissan Tiida 154000km. Engine started to cut out while driving, engine cuts out when idling at traffic lights - ñeeds restarting and on acceleration away from traffic lights car dies before normal accelerator power kicks in. Has anyone had this? Oh...and no scan fault codes !
The symptoms you described, such as the engine stalling and dying on acceleration and cutting out while driving and at traffic lights, could be caused by a variety of issues.
Here are a few things you can try:
Check the fuel system. A problem with the fuel system, such as a clogged fuel filter or a malfunctioning fuel pump, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the ignition system. A problem with the ignition system, such as faulty spark plugs or a malfunctioning ignition coil, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the engine oil level. Low engine oil level can cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling.
Check the engine timing. If the engine timing is off, it can cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the exhaust system. A problem with the exhaust system, such as a clogged catalytic converter, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
If you are unable to identify the source of the problem or if the issue persists after checking these components, I recommend having a mechanic diagnose and repair the issue to ensure that the problem is properly addressed and the vehicle is safe to drive.
Had it scanned at auto electrician shop, he said no codes could be anything even a faulty relay ! Has been with mechanic close by and he said no fault codes too, checked some things, heard my list of possible issue areas you gave me plus MAF sensor possible issues, Crankshaft sensor issues, fuel pump or filter issue, coil issue, exhaust system issue, speed sensor fault again, and he didn't think most of these the issue he found nothing. He also said my engine was not CVT as 2005, 1.5L Gseries when I àlways thought it was ! Good if it isn't. He showed me a ticket on the transmission dip stick which told him it was not a CVT. All info. I read online says car engine is CVT?? Mechanic said this stalling and hesitating was not transmission. The oil I had changed just before issues, I informed mechanic and auto electritian - according to oil change documentation, 3L of 5w40 mineral oil was newly added after draining (had been synthetic all its life) when I see online info. Says car takes 4.2L full and should be 5w30? Auto electrician and Mechanic didn't think this difference was the issue or an issue. The one spoake plug he could easily take out he said it looked OK not needing a new set and the idle and start were fine so he didn't think issue was anything to do with spark plugs. He ran car around from cold and ran car until it got hot but no faulting. Ran it hot even though I said it was an issue when cold?? Annoyed there has been no diagnosis, so no fix. Will have to continue driving it but now it's unreliable waiting for the next faulting and as our driving is always 20 - 40 km travel it means we might Breakdown away from home again ! I read somewhere that if coolant hasn't been changed for sometime ( still green but somewhat darker than new)it could have metal fillings in it and interfering with the electrics so I thought I would get that changed around $94. No further forward, upsetting. If only there was a fault code !
Ever thought of just checking the air filter? Could be chocked up. Had a customer come into a workshop I used to work at and air filter was thrashed car had same symptoms.
Was with reputable machanic for a week, he checked everything couldn't find an issue, got it back to run around, if it happened agàin to take it back, hasn't happened again, has been going well no issues, very strange ! Must have been a fuel blockage perhaps ! If it happens again and a result found I will let you know, thx to all who replied, all answers were helpful.
Had same problem with the car suddenly losing all power mid drive. Went 5 times to my mechanic and no solution he tested everything. Then went to another auto-electrician and mechanic and they immediately diagnosed as a switch connected to the accelerator which wasn't working so wasn't 'sending' the engine the right signal. I'm not a car person at all and can't find the documentation from when it happened, so sorry for the slightly vague explanation and lack of correct terms, maybe the accelerator pedal switch from what I searched but might be the wrong name. Anyway I hope that helps someone with the issue.
Was this switch a speed sensor??? I have had the two speed sensors replaced. Thanks for your reply anyway, I will definitely ask an auto electrician next time if it could be a switch related to the accelerator, could narrow his search, much thx.
@kat27I know those are located near the wheels so don't think so. I have a feeling this had 'switch' in the name. Glad your issue was sorted. As per my post above my original mechanic had a hard time diagnosing and the scan they ran showed up nothing rather unhelpfully. The second mechanic I went to had seen the same issue in another Tiida a few weeks prior so was able to diagnose and fix it immediately.
Here are a few things you can try:
Check the fuel system. A problem with the fuel system, such as a clogged fuel filter or a malfunctioning fuel pump, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the ignition system. A problem with the ignition system, such as faulty spark plugs or a malfunctioning ignition coil, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the engine oil level. Low engine oil level can cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling.
Check the engine timing. If the engine timing is off, it can cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
Check the exhaust system. A problem with the exhaust system, such as a clogged catalytic converter, could cause the engine to run poorly and experience stalling and dying on acceleration.
If you are unable to identify the source of the problem or if the issue persists after checking these components, I recommend having a mechanic diagnose and repair the issue to ensure that the problem is properly addressed and the vehicle is safe to drive.